2 July 2019
Gemfields’ ‘Suite of Gemstones’ Brings African Rubies and Emeralds to Paris Couture
For Paris Couture, Gemfields has assembled a myriad of coloured gemstone designs across global brand partners including; AYA, Backes & Strauss, Bina Goenka, Fabergé, Fehmida Lakhany, Francis de Lara, GFG Jewellery by Nilufer, James Ganh, Margery Hirschey, Paul Morelli, Valani Atelier, Van Leles and William & Son.
The resulting ‘Suite of Gemstones’ is a tribute to African rubies and emeralds, showcasing their versatility and wearability across high and fine jewellery creations. Fusing responsibly sourced gemstones from the African continent into 18kt gold designs, AYA’s contemporary Zambezi Collection includes pendants, bangles, bracelets, earrings and rings. Each piece in the collection represents a piece of Africa. Manufactured in Cape Town, the jewellery incorporates a selection of magnificent, richly coloured top-quality African gemstones, including Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies by Gemfields. “I designed most of the Zambezi Collection while at our River House on the Zambezi – which is constantly surrounded by elephants, so this probably explains why the tusk features quite so much in the designs!” Chelsy Davy- Founder- AYA. Backes & Strauss has collaborated with Gemfields to create the breath-taking Piccadilly Princess Royal Emerald Green timepiece. A natural green vision, it displays 245 Zambian emeralds with 10 different cuts for a total of 31.91cts. The responsibly sourced gems combined with Backes & Strauss' carefully engineered design create a brilliant piece found nowhere else in the world. For over 25 years, Bina Goenka has discreetly acquired some of the world’s finest gems and created masterpieces for her loyal clientele. These collectors, initially from India but now from every corner of the world, are lured by the extraordinary designs and craftsmanship that her jewellery beholds. Mozambican rubies feature in a spectacular and unique snake design which combines both cut and polished and rough gems and can be worn as a necklace or used to adorn as a ring and bracelet. Bina has always loved colour which she believes brings the world alive. Whether it is rubies, sapphires, emeralds, or Paraiba, coloured gems have the ability to take a design and turn it into a living form that camouflages with nature. Founder & CEO, Bina Goenka adds, “Responsible sourcing is important because there is a clear understanding that funds procured from a sale have gone rightfully to the people who are entitled to those funds.” Iconic artist jeweller of exceptional heritage, Fabergé, creates extraordinary jewellery, timepieces and objets d’art, as well as bespoke commissions for a discerning international clientele. By painting with the world’s finest coloured gemstones, Fabergé explores a life in colour through creations which are designed to become future heirlooms. Amongst other Fabergé designs showcasing in Paris is Le Chat Pushkin brooch. This delicate diamond cat and emerald egg brooch expresses the femininity and elegance of Fabergé, with a dynamic sense of movement. Inspired by Alexander Pushkin poem ‘Ruslan and Ludmila,’ later adapted into Mickhail Glinka opera, the brooch is set in 18 carat white gold and features a cabochon emerald, pink tourmaline, a pear-shaped and round white diamonds and round pink sapphires and emeralds. With roots in Burma and raised in a family intertwined with the jewellery industry, Fehmida Lakhany’s designs are born out of her travels and innate jewellery knowledge. Fehmida personally handpicks each gem and loves to bring to life the unique characteristics of each one through her designs. She has recently started working with Gemfields. Francis de Lara jewellery-eyewear is crafted by artisans who uniquely and simultaneously have experience in the creation of both. Showing at Paris Couture are the ‘Ruby Teardrop’ and ‘Eve’. Based on the undulations of a Renaissance frame, the former is gold-plated sterling silver, with yellow 24kt gold cabochons, one pear-cut ruby ‘teardrop’ and seven oval-cut amethysts. Eve is completely handmade, featuring two serpents as the side temples. The larger, emerald encrusted serpent’s tail curves around the wearer’s ear, and temptingly dangles a juicy tourmaline apple, whilst the gentler serpent, with cognac diamonds, pink sapphires, and 18k gold cabochons, gazes towards the sky. GFG Jewellery by Nilufer is a London-based British contemporary fine jewellery brand established by founder, Nilufer Kizilkaya. With a vision to encapsulate timeless beauty, Nilufer set about creating collections that are easily wearable from day to night with a vision to form a part of a woman’s daily outfit ritual. James Ganh takes an engineering perspective in his approach to jewellery, ensuring each of his designs are uniquely versatile. He creates remarkable pieces that are made for modern day wear whilst remaining an heirloom for the future. Incorporating ancient style and techniques with a modern sensibility is how best to describe Margery Hirschey designs. Through an artistic eye for colour pairings and the use of thoughtful asymmetry, the natural beauty of the materials truly shines. The fine jewellery House of Paul Morelli is rooted in his parents’ family tradition of hand stitched theatre costumes. Paul Morelli’s luxury fine jewellery - from made-to-order, to timeless classics, to signature pieces – blends this tradition with current influences. Paul explains, “I select Gemfields’ magnificent emeralds for one of-a-kind designs. Each hand-crafted piece is set and customised in creative coordination with the dazzling gem.” On display at Paris Couture is a dazzling ring featuring a 5.88ct Zambian emerald framed by 7 carats of diamonds set in platinum. Paul’s fascination with emeralds is rooted in their history. “Emeralds have been sought after and prized for centuries. Ancient civilisations independently held this quintessentially green gemstone in the highest esteem.” New York based Valani Atelier specialises in innovative and responsibly sourced bespoke pieces. Heena Shah, Valani’s designer, has a love of emeralds – favouring special cuts for her intricate rings – and her insistence on the integrity of every component means Gemfields’ responsibly sourced coloured gemstones are ideal for her new collections. “Sourcing emeralds and rubies from Gemfields supports Valani Atelier’s mission of responsible sourcing and transparency in the jewellery industry,” explains Heena. “Collaborating with people around the world to create incredibly rich pieces in a sustainable way that is equitable and uses materials responsibly is the most rewarding aspect of my career.” Van Leles has teamed with Gemfields to create a capsule collection comprising high jewellery pieces adorned with Zambian emeralds. Set into fluid, regal shapes dripping from the ears in cascading earrings, and a flowing, elegant necklace and rings. Also on show, is a pair of earrings from the Enchanted Garden collection; gardenias, roses, orchids and cherry blossoms burst in Van Leles’ spectacular display of floral splendour. Founded in 1999 by William Asprey, William & Son has a definitively British aesthetic. The MYA collection ‘Million Years Ago’ travels back in time to when the diamonds and emeralds first begun their journey when they were purely a set of minerals. The appearance of the mineral structures is celebrated in the different designs.